Tuesday, January 21, 2014

Vertical bust seam adjustment part 1

Clockwise from top left: 
Take the original pattern pieces and work out the bust point on each.  
Cut vertically through both pattern pieces - I angled them so the bust points were aligned and drew a straight line across both upper and lower cups. 
Paste the sides together matching the edge back up.  The bust curves are now separated. Trace a new pattern piece as shown and recreate the missing edge using a French curve.  Theoretically, the more shallow the curve, the less volume with the inner cup favoured as more shallow.  I think the idea is that this will need playing with but whatever happens, each piece will need to measure the same length.
Here is the new cup with a vertical seam.  But will it fit?
To be continued...

Tutorial thanks to this blog
Photos no thanks to my ipad or the bafflingly user unfriendly blogger. 

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